Palm Free BioGreen Emulsifier

BioGreen Emulsifier is a 100% vegetable origin palm free emulsifier that creates lamellar creams and lotions which feel fabulous on the skin. It penetrates the skin easily and allows other actives to penetrate the skin in a most effective way.

*BioGreen has been discontinued by the manufacturer and we are waiting on them for information about a possible replacement.

Inci: Hydroxystearyl Alcohol, Hydroxystearyl Glucoside & Aqua, Glucose

What is it?

BioGreen Emulsifier is an exceptionally green, oil in water (O/W) emulsifier made from glucose extracted from wheat combined with fatty acids taken from castor beans. This means it is 100% vegetable origin. It has excellent eco credentials being one of the new Palm Free emulsifiers and is 100% biodegradable.

BioGreen Emulsifier creates lamellar creams and lotions which feel fabulous on the skin. Lamellar means the oil molecules are surrounded by water molecules forming a layer and this is repeated forming multiple layers. Lamellar layers also allow other actives to penetrate the skin in a more efficient fashion and give good long term hydration against TEWL (transepidermal water loss) in the upper layers of the skin.

It penetrates the skin easily and leaves no white drag or soaping effect (when a cream goes white on the skin and seems to take ages to rub in). It can emulsify a wide range of vegetable oils, butters and waxes resulting in creams and lotions with very sophisticated, elegant texture that spread easily and leave the skin feeling very soft and smooth.

HLB 14-15

Cosmetic Functions

The individual materials that make up BioGreen Emulsifier are listed on the Cosmetic Ingredient Database (Cosing) here.

How to use it?

Skin Care
Even the simplest formulation with BioGreen Emulsifier will hydrate and protect the skin because of the lamellar structure slowing down the TEWL (Trans Epidermal Water Loss).

Use in high end serums for its elegant feel. Excellent when using potent vegetable oils that you want to stand out, such as Pomegranate Seed Oil.

It makes body lotions that are easy to apply and leaves no greasy residue yet gives many hours of continuous hydration.

It is very resistant to electrolytes which means it is possible to make salt cream scrubs with it (often, salts will cause creams to separate).

It can tolerate a wide pH range (3-10) which means it is also a good for AHA peeling creams as well as other actives that may have varying pH levels that could potentially cause a cream to separate or split.

Use in eye creams and serums as well as sensitive skin products. Skin tolerance tests have shown it be be non irritating and a good choice for sensitive skin, around the eye area and in baby products.

It is not a moisturiser in it’s own right to be added to other ingredients. However, when BioGreen is used as the emulsifier in creams and lotions, the resulting product keeps the skin moisturised for up to 8 hours after application. For that reason, we consider it a moisturising ingredient even though it’s function is not as readily usable as our other moisturisers.

Hair Care
No specific hair care use but it will hydrate a dry scalp and allow actives such as Bio Energiser to penetrate the scalp and enter the root matrix in a very effective way.

Other
Use 1% to 5%. Different textures of oils, butters or waxes will change the finished texture.
It is very stable so does not need Cetearyl Alcohol as a stabiliser.

It can be added to Stage 1 (fat stage) or Stage 2 (water stage). Whichever stage you put the BioGreen Emulsifier in, the whole of Stage 1 (fat stage) should be added to Stage 2 (water stage).

The difference between adding to the fat stage or the water stage does give a slightly different feel to the end product.

Use a stick blender to give high shear for up to a minute or even less until you can see that the mixture has emulsified. This also means that the lamellar layers have been formed. Stop using the stick blender and transfer the bowl to a pan of cold water to cool down and use a spatula to stir whilst it cools. This will protect the lamellar layers from being destroyed by the stick blender.

Suggested Blends
Very good to use with actives like Eco Marine Algae Extract and Liftonin as the lamellar layers allow the actives to penetrate the skin over a period of time giving a more long lasting effect.

Use with Apricot Kernel Oil or Peach Kernel Oil for sensitive skin products or skin that is typically very reactive.

Cautions/Contraindications
None.

Recipes

The Simplest Cream Ever!
This is to illustrate how lovely the emulsifier is and how well it hydrates and protects the skin. Think how more gorgeous it will be with more specific vegetable oils and some of our superb actives.

Stage 1: (above 75°C)
20% Sweet Almond Oil
5% BioGreen Emulsifier

Stage 2: (above 75°C)
74% Boiling Spring Water

Stage 3: (below 40°C)
1% Preservative 12
100% Total

Method:
Put stage 1 ingredients into a small bowl in a bain marie.

When they are above 75°C, weigh boiling spring water into a larger bowl and put onto the bain marie.

Pour the fat stage into the water stage and start to stick blend. After a a few seconds, look at the cowl of the stick blender (covers the blade) and see what the mix looks like. If it is granular and separating, stick blend a little longer. When the cream looks smooth and like a runny single cream, stop stick blending and take it off the heat.

Cool down in a pan of cold water and stir with a spatula.

When it is under 40°C, add the preservative and mix thoroughly. Put into jars and label. This cream will look very fluid but it will thicken more overnight whilst in the jars.


Triple Butter Cream
This cream has the most amazing skin feel that soaks in immediately leaving no greasy residue. Ideal for leg creams or anywhere on the body.

Stage 1: (above 75°C)
10% Avocado Butter
5% Shea Butter
5% Coconut Butter

Stage 2: (above 75°C)
73% Boiling Spring Water
5% BioGreen Emulsifier

Stage 3: (below 40°C)
1% Preservative 12
1% Essential Oils of your choice
100% Total

Method:
Put stage 1 ingredients into a small bowl in a bain marie.

When they are above 75°C, weigh boiling spring water and BioGreen Emulsifier into a larger bowl and put onto the bain marie. Stir briefly to dissolve the emulsifier.

Pour the fat stage into the water stage and start to stick blend. After a few seconds, look at the cowl of the stick blender (covers the blade) and see what the mix looks like. If it is granular and separating, stick blend a little longer. When the cream looks smooth and like a runny single cream, stop stick blending and take it off the heat.

Cool down in a pan of cold water and stir with a spatula.

When it is under 40°C, add the stage 3 ingredients and mix thoroughly. Put into jars and label. This cream will look thick but is pourable. It will thicken even more overnight whilst in the jars.


For more information and guidance on making your own skin care products please see Aromantic's books and eBooks in our Publications section.

These notes are not meant to replace medical guidance and you should seek the advice of your doctor for your health matters. The formulae are given in good faith and are intended for educational purposes only. They have not been evaluated or tested in any way and Aromantic Ltd. makes no claim as to their effectiveness. It is up to the reader to ensure that any products they produce from these recipes are safe to use, and if relevant, compliant under current cosmetic regulations.

Traditional & Historic Notes

Historical Information
It has always been a challenge in the beauty industry to formulate creams and lotions that can tolerate a low pH for using with AHAs. Typically, acids weaken the emulsification bonds that hold the cream together and stop it from splitting.

Salts can often do the same, so scrubs have usually been gel based to get around this.

BioGreen Emulsifier is resistant to electrolytes (salts) and remains stable with a pH as low as 3.