How to prepare your Herbs for use in Natural Skin, Body and Hair Care

By Kolbjorn Borseth

Extracted from my book, The Aromantic Guide to making your own Natural Skin, Hair and Body Care Products.

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In my recipes I may ask you to add a ‘Herbal Infusion’, a ‘Herbal Decoction’, or ‘CO2 Extract’ of a certain herb as one of the ingredients in your products such as Shampoos, Creams, Skin Toners, Pet Care products, Ointments, Hair Treatments, Toothpastes, etc. In addition, you may be asked to make a ‘Poultice’ or a ‘Compress’ (see separate article here). Below you will find definitions of these terms and, if appropriate, how to prepare them.

Infusions

An Infusion is made like a tea. If using a Herbal Infusion instead of boiling water in your Recipe, make it as follows: Allow 2-3g dried herbs per 100ml water (please note that sometimes the amount of dried herb used will vary according to strength needed). Pour boiling water over the herbs. Cover and allow to stand for 10-20 minutes. Strain and use according to the Method in the Recipe.

Decoctions

When using Horsetail, or the tougher parts of a plant like the roots, seeds, berries or the bark of a plant, make a Decoction rather than an Infusion. Making a Decoction involves boiling the herbs. Put around 2-3g or more of the dried, or 20-30g of the fresh, herb parts into 100ml of water and cover the saucepan. Bring the mixture to a boil and continue to boil for about twenty minutes. You may need to add a bit more water if steam escapes. Steep and strain the mixture and use according to the Method in the Recipe. When making Decoctions and Infusions do not use an aluminium pan – use a stainless steel, glass, ceramic or enamel (make sure it’s not chipped, though) pan.

How to use Infusions and Decoctions in your Recipes...

You can replace the water content in your Cream, Lotion, Foam Bath, Gel, Shampoo, and Conditioner Recipes with a Herbal Decoction or Infusion. Infusions and Decoctions are usually added to the Recipe at the Water Stage of making Creams and Lotions. Don’t use Infusions or Decoctions in Ointment Recipes – use the Tincture and/or Essential Oil and CO2 Extract instead.

Use the Infusion or Decoction as it is, or combined with other ingredients, for Wound Washes, Mouth Washes, Eye Baths or Washes, Compresses, and in Whole Body Baths. See individual recipes for more information as well as for the strength of Infusions and Decoctions.

Higher amounts of Preservatives are needed when using Herbal Infusions & Decoctions.

You need to double the amount of Preservative in your product when you substitute Herbal Infusions for Boiling Spring Water in Recipes that contain Boiling Spring Water. Because natural herbs are not radiated, they naturally carry bacteria and fungi. For this reason, use 0.8% of Parabens, or 1.2g of Preservative K, if using a Herbal Infusion or Decoction in your products. Please note that Sodium benzoate is an inappropriate Preservative to use in products that contain Herbal Infusions and Decoctions as you would have to use a very large amount of it for it to work effectively.

Other ways to use Herbs for Health, Healing and Beauty...

Herbal Teas – Internal use

Make an Infusion or Decoction and drink when cool enough to do so.

If unsure whether to take any herb, please consult your doctor or find a qualified medical herbalist in your area. There are many herbs that are not suitable for use during pregnancy, especially herbs that are abortifacients, emmenagogues and strong laxatives. Please make sure that you check with an appropriate authoritative guide or consult a medical herbalist. As a general guideline, don’t take the same herb internally for more than 2 weeks in a row. You can alternate it with another herb.

Herbal Baths – Whole Body, Foot and Hand

Method 1 - The simplest way is to make a strong Infusion or Decoction of herbs and allow it to stand for 20-30 minutes. Once strained, this can be added to the bath water or water you’re using for your Foot or Hand Bath.

Method 2 - You can also place the herbs in the bath. This method is preferable for the use of such herbs as Plantain and Lady's Mantle for the treatment of eczema and itchiness. When placing the herbs directly into the bath, pour 5-10 litres of boiling water over the herbs, leave for 10 minutes, before adjusting the temperature to allow the person to enter the bath. The person should stay in the bath for at least 20 minutes, adding more hot water if necessary in order to keep the water as hot as possible. The person should not rinse or towel-dry the body and should allow the body to air-dry instead.

Method 3 - Place fresh or dried herbs in a muslin bag, tie the bag up with string and place in the bath. As in the above example, pour 5-10 litres of boiling water over the bag, wait ten minutes and then follow the same procedure as above.

Method 4 - To use herbs in your Foam Bath Recipes, make a strong Infusion or Decoction of the herbs and strain them.

Quantities of herbs to Use in Herbal Baths

For a Whole Body Bath use approximately 50-100g of dried herbs or 500-1000g fresh herbs. For a Foot or Hand Bath use 15-20g of dried herbs or 150-200g of fresh herbs.

If using Method 1 above to make an Infusion or a Decoction, then use:

• 1 litre of water per 15-20g of dried herbs
• 2-3 litres water per 150-200g of fresh herbs
• 3 litres of water per 40-50g of dried herbs
• 6-7 litres water per 400-500g fresh herb

After letting it stand, you would strain it and add the resulting Infusion or Decoction to the Bath.

Tips

• You may need to adjust the water you are using according to the volume of fresh flowers or leaves or roots you are using.
• Please follow instructions for exact amount listed under each herb in this Guide.

Base Recipe for Foam Baths

(This Recipe makes approximately 1 litre.)

• 200-250ml of Foam Bath Emulsifier
• 750-800ml Boiling Water/or Boiling Herbal Infusion or Decoction
• 1 teaspoon (5ml) of Preservative (or double if using Herbal Infusions or Decoctions)
• 10-20ml Essential Oils (Maximum 2%)
• If using Preservative K, add 1 teaspoon Lactic Acid (or 2 teaspoons if using 2 teaspoons of Preservative K)

Method for making Foam Baths

1. Measure the Foam Bath Emulsifier in a measuring jug and pour into an oven-proof bowl.
2. Measure the boiling water or boiling Herbal Infusion or Decoction and pour into the bowl with the Foam Bath Emulsifier.
3. Add the Preservative. Stir well until the mixture becomes thick.
4. Place the bowl in a sink of very cold water, stirring the mixture occasionally.
5. When it is cooled to below 30°C, blend in your own Essential Oils and add Lactic Acid if using Preservative K.
6. Allow the mixture to cool to room temperature and then, if you prefer, add more cold water to achieve the consistency you require.
7. Pour into bottles and label.

Adding Essential Oils to Foam Bath Recipes

Adding different types of Essential Oil blends to your Foam Bath will affect the consistency of your Foam Bath. Adjust once made by: adding more Foam Bath Emulsifier if too thin; or more cold water if too thick. The next time you make the same Recipe, adjust your Recipe so that you add more Foam Bath Emulsifier or water, whatever the case may be, from the start.

When using Essential Oils in your Baths, it is important that the Essential Oils are dispersed evenly throughout the whole bath and that the drops are not floating on the surface. This ensures that the Essential Oils penetrate the skin correctly. This is especially important for sensitive skin types or with conditions such as eczema. Using Essential Oils in Foam Baths is the easiest way to ensure that they are evenly dispersed in the bath.

Quantities of herbs to use in your Foam Bath Recipes

To make the Infusion or Decoction to use in your Foam Bath Recipe, use approximately 1 litre per 15-20g of dried herbs or approximately 3 litres of water per 150-200g of fresh herbs for each 1 litre of Foam Bath that you are making.

Tips

• When boiling or infusing your herbs, you need to start off with more water than your eventual Recipe states you need of an Infusion or Decoction as water will evaporate or be absorbed by the herb, e.g. if you need a 65ml Decoction, you may need to use 100ml water.
• You may need to adjust the water you are using according to the volume of fresh flowers or leaves or roots you are using.
• Please follow instructions for exact amount listed in your recipe.

Tips for Bath Treatments and skin problems

• When using Baths to treat specialised skin problems such as eczema it is important to start with calming herbs such as Chamomile. This is especially important if the skin is very infected. You can use Chamomile in your Baths for a whole week, but if using other herbs, use them only for one night at a time and alternate with one or more herbs.
• After using the Chamomile or other calming herbs, you can continue with a drawing and activating herb such as Wild Pansy and then alternate with Chickweed, for example, if the problem is itchy skin or eczema.

Eye Baths

You can buy plastic Eye Bath cups from the local pharmacy and put the Infusion, Decoction or diluted Tincture (1-2% diluted in water e.g. 1-2ml of the Tincture in 100ml of water) in the cup before placing the eye over the cup and tilting the head back to wash the eye. Make sure you have covered the neck and chest area with a towel or something similar as the liquid will run down your face.

Caution: Never use hot liquid in your Eye Bath – make sure the liquid is cold, cool or lukewarm.

Herbal Facial Steams

Boil water and add enough to almost fill a plastic, ceramic or stainless steel basin. Add a few pinches of the dried herbs of your choice to the water in the basin and allow to draw for a few minutes. Sit at a table with a towel over your head and cover the basin of hot water in front of you. Keep your head at a comfortable distance above the water so the steam reaches your face.

Sit for 5-10 minutes with your head in the 'tent' and allow the herbs and the steam to do their work. Essential Oils can be used instead of herbs. You can use the bathroom sink instead of a basin – just take a chair into the bathroom so that you can sit comfortably while taking the steam.

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